The images that left the greatest impression on my first trip to the region in June 2003 were those of the desolate old cities dotting the shoreline, and the residents who kept returning to the post-apocalyptic landscape for one last look. They mostly watched in silence as teams of wrecking crew and scavengers took apart their homes and community as they knew it. Above: the residents of Wushan marked the last days of their old city by watching an annual dragon-boat race from the desolate shells of every building that was still standing. (Wushan June 2003).